Medication and Situations on the Farm

Page 1 -Medication and Conditions- How to Treat a Sick Goat

Medication & Conditions (Page 2)

Wormers - A Problem in Goats and all Animals



Worms (Internal Parasites) 

    This can happen very fast, especially if you do not rotate fields and the grass is over eaten. It can also happen if you do not seperate you new animals from you herd before the are wormer and pass your farm idea of being in good health. These parasites also can happen when the grass just starts to grow or even when there is a long rainy period.

To check for worms either do a fecal exam, check eyelids (there is a class offered by UGA and you must take it to get the chart to use for reading the worm content), or check gums. You are looking at the pinksness in these areas and when it gets white the worms are taking the blood away. If the gums aren't dark pink, worming is in order. 

Please understand that I am certified to check my herd adn you need to take a class to get certified.  I am just making a statement of how I manage mine. If your goat normally has a dark tail and it is suddenly pale, worming is probably in order. We use the following (using a white wormer at least once in every three wormings).  Do understand that a certain amount of worm is ok and that is different to every herd and even every farm. This is something that I truely believe in.  


Here is a list that I use.  I am Not saying it will work for you , but it works at my place

  • Valbazen  (white) - 1 cc for every 22 pounds. Note: do not use on doe during her   first 45 days of pregnancy. We always worm with Valbazen the day the doe kids. Valbazen is the best wormer we've found for getting rid of tapeworms.
  • Panacur (white) - 1 cc for every 22 pounds. We normally get this wormer from our vet.
  • Ivomec Plus – 1cc for every 55 pounds ( work well against Barbara Pole worms)
  • Epernix (clear) - 1 cc for every 22 pounds. 
  • Eqvalan (clear)- 1 cc for every 60 to 70 pounds.
  • DVMectin (clear) - 1 cc for every 60 to 70 pounds. 
  • Dectomax  (clear) – 1 cc for ever pounds.                              
  • Cydectin (Blue). We use Cydectin only when we have to. Every vet at every seminar we've attended has said that Cydectin is the wormer of last resort. **Only use it if no other wormer works. You do not want that super worm on your property and you        can help to keep it off by managing the wormer that you have. There is nothing "coming down the pike" to replace it.
  • Ivomec Sheep Drench - 1cc for every 13 pounds.
  • Safeguard for Goats (white) – 0.6 cc for 25 lbs (2.4 cc for every 100 pounds)

Remember :

 Check adults frequently for signs of parasites, especially during warm, moist times of the year, and worm accordingly. It is important not to under-dose when administering wormers, because over time this will create a resistance to the wormer causing it to become ineffective against parasites. Remember when you are  looking  at your animals there are signs such as paleness of the gums or lower eyelids, diarrhea, rough hair coat, or poor growth may indicate anemia and can be cause for alarm. 

Medication Before, During ,& After Kidding



  • COVEXIN 8 2cc SQ or Cavalry 9 1 cc  SQ
  • CYDECTIN (Purple) ORALLY (DOSAGE IS  1cc TO 10lbs) or Cydection Injectable orally 1 cc to 50 lbs
  • BoSe ( Perscription) (DILUTED  SELENIUM) 1 cc per 40# SQ We have started this 2012 due to the present of forked tail in our Non-traditional goats
  • CLEANSING SHOT - 10cc SQ (this  assists in cleaning, infections)

KIDDING - KIDS at birth

  • BoSe ( Perscription) (DILUTED SELENIUM) .25 SQ We have started this 2012 due to the present of forked tail in our Non-traditional goats
  • ID, a product to build immunity,    orally
  • SPRAY OR DIP NAVEL W/TAMED IODINE ( Tie off with Dental Flosh)
  • WHITE WORMER GIVEN TO KIDS ON A  SCHEDULE (We use Pyrantel Pamoate Suspension from UPCO at 1 cc per 10 lbs  the first and fifteenth of each month on all kids on the ground, counting  from the earliest born - orally. 


  • 3 to 5cc of Dextrose 50% orally  (warm is best for body temp)
  • 1 cc 500 mg Thiamine orally (can be mixed with Dextrose)
  • Also Vit E helps with weak legs, Use human Vit E capsule and Squeeze the liquid into the mouth.


  • B-12 Complex : 2cc SQ when needed
  • B-12 :5000 ½ cc SQ twice a week until 10 month old
  • B-1: 2cc SQ when needed


Given to the expected Mothers 21 – 28 days before Giving Birth.

(This treatment – boosters - for our pregnant does gives passive immunity to kids that will last until the kid is 10 to 12 weeks old and capable of building its own immunities.)

  • CD/T by Bayer - 2cc
  • Vitamin A, D, E – 2 cc (this is extremely important during periods  of drought)
  • B-12 Complex - 2 cc ( This might not be neccessary, but it is a      water soluable vitamin and will not hurt)

 At Birth.​​ 

  • Nutridrench - As soon as the kids are born and cleaned, we give one  "squirt" of Goat Nutridrench.
  • 7% Iodine - We spray navels immediately after birth with 7% Iodine.  Most books recommend "dipping" the cord in the Iodine. We have found thoroughly spraying to be more efficiet. We also tied it off with  dental floss to help protect it and cut off the excess string and cord.
  • Wormer - I give them a little bit, about .5 cc just to make sure.       
    10 to 12 Weeks After Birth – with Booster 14 to 21 Days Later:

  • Covexin 8 – 2 cc (2 cc booster) Just started using this in late 2014
  • CD/T by Bayer - 2cc
  • ​B-12 Complex - 2 cc ( This might not be neccessary, but it is a      water soluable vitamin and will not hurt)​



Age of puberty - 7-10 months of age They can reproduce at this age.
Breeding weight, 60 to 75% of adult weight. You have to look at the dam to get a better idea.
Estrous Cycle
length - 18-22 days
duration - 12-36 hours
signs tail - wagging, mounting, bleating and even urinating in bucks face.
Ovulation - 12 to 36 hours from onset of standing heat
Gestation length - 146 to 155 days
Breeding Season - August through January. It can be induced in other months.. (some individuals will breed anytime)

Age of puberty - 4-8 months
Breeding age - 8-10 months. Usually “if can reach then can breed”
Breeding season - all year
Breeding ratio - 30 to 80 does
A fullblood registered buck so that all resulting nanny kids can be registered as 50% and be kept for replacement if desired.

1. Adaptability: Ability to survive in given environment and bility to reproduce in given environment
2. Reproduction: Conception rate, Kidding and number of offspring, Non-seasonality
3. Growth rate: Pre-weaning gain, Post-weaning gain
4. Carcass Characteristics

Temperature - 101.7 - 104.5 F
Heart rate - 70 -80/minute
Respiration rate - 12-15/minute
Ruminal movements - 1-1.5 /minute

a. Provide proper housing
b. Practice good sanitation
c. Provide adequate nutrition
d. Provide clean water
e. Observe how much feed they eat
f. Observe/know your animals
g. Observe the feces of your animals
h. Become familiar with the common diseases
i. Investigate the source of strange smells
j. Use your veterinarian for diagnosis

a. Eats well
b. Chews its cud
c. Has a shiny coat
d. Has strong legs and feet
e. Is sociable
f. Has bright and clear eyes.

a. Off feed, water, Diarrhea
b. No sign of cud chewing, runny eyes
c. Standing apart from group
e. Rough hair coat, hair falling out
f. Abnormal temperature, swelling on any part of body
g. Heavy mucous in nose & mouth, Pale mucosa of eyes and mouth

 KID HEALTH PRACTICE  1. At Birth: Read vaccination program and follow, Make sure kids get colostrum and the teets are open on the nanny, Cold kids, warm and give 5cc dextrose orally. Milk nanny and keep them on her milk so you can return the kids to her, Start creep feed using rumensin to avoid coccidiosis and increase weight gain  2. Casteration: Knife, Emasulator, Elastrator  The question is why castrate if you will sell the buck kids at weaning time as at the present wethers do not bring any more money than the billy kids. If you creep feed your kids, these guys will be ready for the market at three months when you wean them, keep the nannies on their mother for four months to give them the extra growth to sell them or keep them for replacements. 

When is is time

How to Know When to Get Ready for a Birthing



When is my goat going to give birth. This is a question that we all ask, that is if your breeding goats. I have heard many ways to tell if they ate going to give birth, but there is one the I truly believe in. the loss of the ligament test….. You see goats have two ligaments, one to either side of their tail base, connecting spine to pin bones. This is present in both does and buck. Remember we are talking about birthing so do not get side tracked.  

When a doe is within the 12 hour window (12 hours of labor), these ligaments soften and are 'lost', to accommodate the kids' movement through the birth canal. Goats do NOT lose them for much longer than 12 hours unless there is a problem arranging the kids, simply because those ligaments are needed for structural support and they would not be able to function long with them completely lost. Most likely when the doe is not in labor and you think the ligaments are 'gone', the ligaments have simply shifted within the last week or so of kidding and become harder to find among fat deposits or longer hair - and so are thought to be 'lost' for a week or more before kidding. If you feel around a bit, you'll find them. This shifting is gradual, however, and when they 'lose' their ligaments they will look and feel very different overnight or within a few hours.

If the ligaments have truly been gone on a doe of mine for more than 12 hours, I go invasive to see what the holdup is. The holdup could create problems and death in both the mom and kids.  If the ligaments are gone she'll be in true labor, and the cervix will also dilate normally, so it will be possible to go check. A mispresented kid and/or a very large kid was blocking the canal and wasn't moving properly, so the doe never started pushing or couldn't push a lot (otherwise her uterus would probably rupture).

Also, goats will 'drop' their babies, as ligaments soften in their belly, too. This allows for the kids to reposition to the birthing canal and position. The 'dropped' belly will look sunken in. This is the way I can tell that I will be having “Babies on the Ground”. 

Information and Documents that might help you.

WPFG - Medication usedDownload
WPFG -Goat Med Download
Med (Wormer)Download

Find Out About Classes



Here is some information on classes that I have and some videos that I used to educate myself when I first got started. The videos were presented by OSU and were from a Goat Boot Camp Class.

Find out more Classes

Terms & Language Used in Goat Industry


I know there are terms that might have been used that be hard to follow. I have added a section on terms definitions that might help.  

Goat Language - defined

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" There are  things that we use at our farm and works does not mean it will work on your farm."

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